If you are someone who likes to cook and spend a lot of time in the kitchen you will know that using a cooktop or the top burners on your oven can produce a lot of heat as well as steam. Having a good hood above your units prevents heat, smoke, moisture and grease from permeating throughout your kitchen, or worse, your home.

Before purchasing a range hood you should familiarize yourself with the new and innovative features hoods have to offer. Also, it's important to know that a gas range will require a hood with a higher CFM (cubic feet per minute) than an electric range. For an in-depth explanation on CFM, see below. For additional help contact our knowledgeable sales staff at 888-228-5800.

Range Hood Features:

• Fans are either rotary (like a traditional-bladed fan) or centrifugal (barrel-shaped). A centrifugal fan will move more air and is quieter to operate.
  
  
• CFM - Cubic Feet Per Minute is used to rate and compare air movement, whether it's a leaf blower or a range hood. Choosing a range hood with higher CFM results in more air movement.
  
  
• Noise is measured is sones. A sone is roughly equal to the sound of a refrigerator running. Normal conversations take place at about four sones, city traffic rates up to around eight. Use sones to compare units, but be aware the higher the CFM, the higher the sone.
  
  
• Automatic shutoff can be preset to shut the fan off after a specific time.
  
  
• Heat sensors automatically speed up the fan or sound an alarm when they detect increased heat.
  
  
• Lighting options are also available on hoods, with one or two incandescent or halogen bulbs.
  

Choosing the right hood for your range (Electric vs. Gas):

Not all hoods can be used efficiently on both gas and electric ranges. Each range (gas or electric) requires its own CFM standard in order for heat, odors and moisture to be removed from the air when cooking.

• Electric Range
  An Electric range will require less CFM than a gas range. Therefore a range hood of up to 475 cfm is more than adequate.
  
  
• Gas Range
  The proper hood for a gas range will depend on the gas range's BTU. For every 100 BTU's you need 1 cfm from your range hood. Therefore a gas range with 45000 BTU's requires and range hood of about 450 cfm. This assumes the worst-case scenario - all burners on at the same time and in their highest setting.
  

Note: Professional style range hoods require greater CFMs

Installation Considerations:

When it comes to the right size for efficiency, the hood needs to be at least as wide as the range or cooktop. This will also protect cabinetry from heat and smoke damage. Units will mount either on the wall or under the cabinet. When selecting range hoods, it is best to have already measured your cooking surface before choosing a unit. Always read the specified requirements for the proper mounting height.

• Exhaust - since the idea is to remove air, the best range hood is only as good as its exhaust system. There are three configurations: Vented or Ducted, Non-vented or Duct-Free, and Combination.
  
  
• Vented or Ducted - Requiring ductwork to channel the exhaust outdoors.
  
  
• Non-vented or Duct-free -With washable and replaceable filter(s) to clean and return the air to the kitchen.
  
  
• Combination - can be used with or without ducts.
  
  
• Blowers - some hoods do not come with standard blowers they are separate accessories which can be internal (housed along the run of ductwork) or external (mounted on an outer wall or roof).
  

Location of your Range Hood

If you select a ducted unit, the exhaust must be vented to the outside. An exhaust should never be directed into an attic or basement. If your range hood will be mounted on an exterior wall, the exhaust ducts will be shorter and therefore more efficient. If you plan to install the hood on an interior wall or island, keep in mind the longer distance and consider a higher CFM rating for a stronger airflow.

Proper installation of ductwork is critical to the efficiency of the range hood. While many individuals choose to hire a professional to install their ductwork, you can purchase materials and accessories to do it yourself. Always read the manufacturer's specifications carefully.

If you have any further questions regarding the installation of your new hood contact our sales staff at 888-228-5800.

CFM: Cubic feet per minute. Used to rate and compare air movement, the higher the CFM, the more air is moved.

Control Type: Controls can be electronic (digital touch pads) or manual (pushbutton or rotary knobs). Many selections can be programmed and preset to meet your needs.

Duct: An often-enclosed passage or channel for conveying a substance, especially a liquid or gas. Range hoods will vary in ductwork. Ductwork should always be vented outside.

Duct Length: Try and stay under 30 feet and limit the bends to two of 90 degrees. Note: Sharp bends will disturb the clear flow of air.

Exhaust: To draw out the contents of.

Fan Speeds: Some range hood exhaust fans have variable speed controls, instead of a simple On/Off.

Sone: A subjective unit of loudness, as perceived by a person with normal hearing, equal to the loudness of a pure tone having a frequency of 1,000 hertz at 40 decibels.

Sones Rating: Used to compare the quietness of range hoods. A sone is roughly equal to the sound of a refrigerator running. The higher the CFM, the higher the sone rating is likely to be. Ratings vary based on the installation method, whether vertical (meaning the exhaust ducts straight outdoors) or horizontal (the ductwork has an angle).

Sound Reduction: Additional insulation and reinforced frames for quiet appliance operation.

Manufacturer Warranty: Manufacturer's specified time period after purchase covering product defects. Coverage may be for parts and labor or parts only.

Venting Method: External or re-circulation (Where possible, vent externally). Most hoods can be fitted with a carbon filter kit that purifies the air before it dumps it back into the room. However, you must replace the carbon filter on a regular basis otherwise those pollutants will invade your home again. Another downside to re-circulating is you will generally lose 15% efficiency by using a re-circulating kit (There are times however, when you have no option but to re-circulate).

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