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Our Guide to Installing Boat Tower Speakers

Boat tower speakers might seem like an intimidating installation job to take on at home. But the work is well worth the reward; whether you're a wild wakeboarder or love waterskiing every summer, every day on the water is made better with bass-boosted music. Learn how to amp up your marine stereo system with our guide.
Boat Tower Speakers with Red Awning

Plan It Out

Do The Research

Whether you're working on a classic car or your speedboat, it's always a good idea to plan out your installation ahead of time. Knowing what goes where and when is crucial, so make sure you read this resource and map things out before you go drilling any holes. Read our guide fully, and we recommend giving our team of specialists a call at 800-860-3577 if you get stuck on any of these steps. We'll help you get untangled—and we're always here to complete the job for you if you need hands-on help.

Simplified Directions

  1. Pick your ideal mounting location
  2. Determine what size boat tower speakers and what type of bracket you need. Flat surface mount, clamp, fixed or swivel are popular depending on your brand. Some brands include the mount/clamp in the speaker purchase
  3. Confirm you can get a wire to that location. It might be best to find existing wiring that goes into the tower and follow that, like along a light cord.
  4. Determine if you have enough power for these noisemakers. Unless you have an open channel on your current amp you will likely need an additional amplifier
  5. Once you have confirmed the info above, you are ready to drill and mount the clamp
  6. Feed wire through the tower to the open channels on the amplifier. If the product has RBG lighting, you will need either a multiconductor wire or speaker cable and RGB cable
  7. Attach boat tower speakers to the clamp(a helping hand will be very useful here)
  8. Connect to amplifier and tune the amp accordingly

Challenges, Things You'll Need and Tips

Common bumps in the road can be overcome with proper planning. Take a close look at your boat's tower and see if it's pre-wired or wireless. That will change the amount of work you'll need to do. Pre-wired ones allow users to simply attach their boat tower speakers, connect and attach. But if your system isn't pre-wired, you'll need to do some drilling and cable running that can get a little complicated. As you plan out your strategy, we recommend you have a second person help position and run cable—they'll make every task easier. Know where your clamps and boat tower speakers are going to go (and whether they swivel) as well. You can mark their spots with a pen or pencil. And if your kit folds down, you'll want to ensure that your wiring won't get caught up in the folding hinges, so pick an appropriate spot. Gear and tools you'll need to complete the install include:
  • The proper bracket for your audio devices, whether that's a fixed, swivel, clamp or flat surface mount. Some come with bracket/clamp included
  • A marine amplifier: You'll need boosted power and volume to blast through the open space out on the water, and amplifiers can provide it
  • Boat tower speakers that fit your sonic needs
  • A drill (unless your system is pre-wired): If your cord is thick, you'll need a decently large drill bit that the cord can fit through when you make a hole. Large ones can be found at the hardware store
  • Soldering gun and heat-shrink tubing
  • Marine-grade audio wire (get more than you think you'll need, mistakes are easy to make when it comes to feeding cord through holes.)
  • Any other tools outlined by your specific user manual. Each set is different, so your install may be unlike another's

Ready Your Layout

Mark the Spot to Drill

Keep in mind that if your system is pre-wired, you won't need to drill a hole in your tower and can skip this step. Before picking up your tools at all, make sure you know where your holes are going to go. Do this by measuring the optimal space between where they'll go, marking each spot with a marker, and even holding the two speakers in place to see how they'll look if positioned there. Once you're sure you've got the best position, it's (almost) time to start the real work. Know that once your drilled holes are big enough, you'll be running the cord down one leg of the tower. If there is no existing exit point at the bottom of the leg, you may need to create a hole here, too.

Begin Drilling

If not pre-wired, use a normal-sized drill bit to create a small hole at your marker. This is just a test hole: finally, attach your extra-large bit and start drilling. Do this for each hole you need to make, ensuring that it's big enough for the cord and the boat tower speaker, but not so large that it'll be visible outside of the clamp. That way, your cable will stay away from any splashes that fly up as you speed across the water. Drill your hole through the bottom of the rung (and the top, if necessary). Check your manual to see if both are necessary before starting this step. Depending on your brand, you may attach a clamp following this step.

The Tough Part: Running Your Wire

If Pre-Wired: An Easy Process

Many newer boat systems come pre-wired, meaning your stainless steel structure already sports a connection at the top for a light and accessories. If that's the case, all you have to do is clamp, make the connection to your new gear up top and your amplifier down low, then you're ready to go.

If Not Pre-Wired: Be Ready For A Challenge

If your system isn't pre-wired, the job just got a bit harder. Now it's time to feed your marine cord down the leg of the tower until you reach your exit point and connect to the amplifier. This may take a few tries (or a bit of time) but you will get there. Some experts recommend a few tricks, from making the cords more slippery with lubricant to using extra-long zipties to pull it through. But no matter what, you'll want to be gentle with it and not wrap too much tape around it. Feed a decent amount of slack into it, and see if you can run cord for both speakers through at the same time. Finally, it's time to splice the connections to each one. You can use different methods to make these connections, but soldering with heat-shrinking tubes is a simple process. Strip insulation from the cable, solder and waterproof in whatever ways you feel most comfortable (do your own research on this, there are tons of helpful guides and videos online). Don't forget to connect to your amplifier as well.
Boat Tower Speakers Zoomed In

Finish the Job

Secure Devices With Included Clamps If You Haven't Already

After you've spliced up all your wires, arrange any remaining slack correctly within the crossbar before securing your unit with the clamps that came with your set. With some luck and well-designed soldering, none of the cabling will be exposed to the elements once the boat tower speakers are in place. But if it is, you'll want to make sure that any exposed elements are as waterproof as possible. Wrap them in split loom tubing or other weather- and water-proof shielding that lasts.

Have Fun On the Water!

Once everything's properly affixed, all that's left to do is go wild with your playlist as you wakeboard and waterski—unless you're the driver, of course. These speakers are the perfect way to finish off any marine stereo system, and with the right amplifier you'll be able to hear your favorite tunes from far behind the boat. Don't forget to adhere to local boating laws; many localities have hours where high volumes and speeds shouldn't be exceeded. And if the installation process above seemed a bit too complicated, give our Mobile Installation team a call at 800-860-3577. We're happy to talk you through it, or set up an appointment with our mobile install team. They'll be able to handle all of your marine audio needs. So head into the garage with your boat in tow; we can't wait to take a look at it.

What Our Customers Say About Us

  • Great service! The driver called to say he was on his way and would be a half hour early if that was OK. It worked out perfect! They were very courteous and professional. They got the job done, cleaned up, and were out of there.
    Kenlynn S. - Michigan City, MI
    January 25, 2023
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